Different Terms & Definition of Apparel Manufacturing
Ø Allowance: The addition as extra to the exact
measurement of the body with which garments is made out.
Ø Applique: A cut out design or shape attached to
the face of a fabric for ornamentation is called applique.
Ø Approved sample: According to specification sheet, the
sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.
Ø Accessories: The raw materials required for making
garments other than fabric.
v Finishing accessories
v Sewing accessories
Ø Basic block: The pattern which is made in
accordance with area of different part of human body and their flexes and folds
without allowance and style.
Ø Bespoke: The apparel made for the specified
individual after taking his/her measurement is called bespoke.
Ø Blind stitch: It is a special types of stitch that
can not be seen from the face side of the fabric but can easily be seen from
the back side.
Ø Bar-tack: Re- stitching over a very short
length to give and increase the area a high load bearing strength.(For
example-belt loop & the corner of pocket are bar-tacked.)
Ø Basting: Primary and temporary stitching
before final stitching with a view to facilitating accurate placement is called
basting. Basting could be done either by hand or machine.
Ø Bill of lading(B/L): It is a major document if the goods
are dispatched by sea, the documents represents-
v A formal receipt for the goods.
v The evidence of the contact of
carriage of the goods because of the shipper of the goods and the shipping
company.
v The documents of little of the goods
certificate of origin- A certificate of Bangladesh is issued when it has been
established the goods are the natural product of Bangladesh.
Ø Counter sample: The sample which is followed by
approved sample called counter sample.
Ø CFL:(Centre Front Line)The length between
top center and bottom of the front part.
Ø CBL: (Centre Back Line)The length between
middle point of collar and bottom of a shirt(back side) is called CBL.
Ø Trimmings: Those accessories which are attached
with the apparel during wear is called trimmings. Generally all sewing
accessories are trimmings.
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Category:
A particular
types of garments is defined by a particular number which is called category or
category number.
Ø CM: Cost of Making. Buyer will provide
all the fabric and accessories. Manufacturer have to make only garment and he
will get charge of making only.
Ø CMT: Cost of Making with Trimming.
Manufacturer have to manage all accessories items. He will get charge of
trimmings and making charge.
Ø C & F: If the price of goods is mentioned in
invoice with including transport cost is called C&F.
Ø CIF: If the price of goods is mentioned in
invoice with including transport cost and insurance cost.
Ø Dummy: It is model exactly similar to the
body of a man. It is usually used for testing the fitness of the garments.
Ø Defective garments: The garments which contain some fault
but can be used by rectifying it, is called defective garments.
Ø Disposable garments: The garments which are not used
further after using once. That is the garments which are thrown after using
once are called disposable garments.
Ø Drape: The hanging property of fabric is
called drape. It depends on fabric construction, types of fibers and fabric
finishing.
Ø Export license: In Bangladesh export
license/permissions are needed for all garments/textile products. License are
issued by the trade department.
Ø Fit sample: Sample for checking fitness of the
garments.
Ø Facing: A piece of material sewn into the
edge of a garment as lining or decoration or protection of the garments.
Ø FOB: Free on Board. If the price of the
good is mentioned in invoice without transport and insurance cost is called
FOB.
Ø Sample: The garments which is need for bulk production
is called sample.
Ø Size set sample: The sample which denotes different
size of garments. XXL, XL,L,M,S.
Ø Pre-production sample: The sample which is made to start
bulk production.
Ø Washed sample: The garments which is used for
washing approval.
Ø Seam: The join between two or more plies of
fabrics or material which will make straight line.
Ø Stitch: The unit formed by sewing thread from
a sewing machine.
Ø Grain line: A straight line marked on a pattern
piece to indicate warp and weft direction to ensure the pattern piece is
correctly positioned and cut to achieve the required appearance of the finished
product.
Ø Off grain: If the weft yarn of fabric does not
stay at 90 degree with the selvedge then it is called off grain. It is a fault
of fabric.
If the grain line of the pattern piece is not place on or
parallel to the grain line of fabric, then it is also called off grain.
Ø Rejected garments: The garments which is not used for
some fault is called rejected garments.
Ø Pattern: Pattern is a hard paper which is made
by following each individual components for a style of an apparel with exact
measurement.
Ø Working pattern: To make a pattern of a particular
style with need dimension/exact measurement without allowance.
Ø Production pattern: To make a pattern of a particular
style with need dimension/exact measurement with allowance.
Ø Marker: Marker is a thin paper which contain
all of the components for different sizes for a particular style of apparel. It
is used to reduce consumption.
Ø Quota: A certain amount of garment goods
which are allowed to be exported by the manufacturing country to the imported
country.
Ø Scye: Measurement of arm hole is called
scye.
Ø Packing list: This is a document that indicates the
contents of each individual/package of the container. The packing list includes
the cubic measurement of the cartons/packages, the weight, the number of
cartons/packages. The breakdown of the goods by size/color/quantity. This
document is prepared by the seller or the ship owner & the buyer can
specify which information should be included.
Ø Invoice: A letter of credit which is issued
after delivery of garments to collect the cost of the product.
Ø L/C(Letter of credit):
Ø A document credit or letter of credit
is an undertaking issued by a bank for
the account of the buyer(applicant) to pay the seller(beneficiary) provided the
terms and conditions of the documentary credit are complies with.
Ø A documentary credit or L/C usually
satisfies the seller desire for cash
payment and the buyers desire for credit.
Types of L/C:
v Master L/C: When a L/C is opened to import the
goods from exporter to the buyer, is called master L/C.
v Back to Back L/C: When a L/C is opened against master
L/C to import or collect raw materials to produce and supply the garment is
called BB L/C.
v Revocable L/C: A revocable L/C can be cancelled or
amended without the beneficiary’s consent or prior knowledge.
v Irrevocable L/C: An irrevocable L/C can’t be cancelled
or modified without the consent of the issuing bank, confirming bank and
beneficiary.
Ø Non-quota: The categories or item on which there
is not applied limitation of condition for exporting these are called
non-quota.
Ø Ligne no: The measuring unit of button.40L=1
inch
Ø FOB Airport(FOA): This is similar to the term FOB
except that the mode of transportation is an air carrier.
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